The Panoptiblog

So, a while back when I reviewed the Bluebird Diner, I made passing reference to the loss of Baldy’s, which was by far the best place in town you could get a wrap. My mouth is watering at the thought of the chicken BBQ wrap, and while the chips weren’t spectacular, if you waited long enough between visits you might forget that underneath them was a cookie waiting for you to finish them up. While it was still in business, it might’ve been the best place in Iowa City to get lunch. As soon as I finally ate there a few years ago, I regretted not having discovered how good it was earlier on, a regret that became much more acute when I learned they were shutting the doors for good. So in my review of the Bluebird, I may have revealed a hint of bitterness when I referred to its replacement as “yet another bar.”

Well, Aprille Clarke set me straight (in the most polite possible way) in the comments section, where she let me know that

the former Baldy’s isn’t just another bar, it’s a burger joint that also has a bar-type personality at night. It’s owned by the same people as Baldy’s. I talked to the owner, and he just said he was in the mood to shake things up.

That was enough of a push to get Jen and me into Short’s for the first time, and I highly recommend you do the same. If you were going to design a restaurant to open during an economic downturn in a relatively financially stable city, this is how you would do it: with measured simplicity. Appeal to the popular mythology of hardworking can-do Americans in tough times, much like the current trend toward “depression chic” in fashion that Jen started noticing last year when we were in Chicago. Play up aesthetics that hearken back to an earlier, simpler time; offer a menu that is stripped down to the basics; play blues music. Of course, this is stylized simplicity, so the icons of the simpler era are embedded into glass cases in the wall and lit from beneath. While the owners of Short’s (who include former Iowa kicker and Iowa City native Nate Kaeding) may or may not have been that strategic about considering the economic environment, it was natural enough for them to reach to local history: long before that location held Baldy’s, it was Short’s Shoe Shine. (You can read all about it in this interesting Corridor Buzz piece by Loren Keller.)

Short’s serves two things: burgers and fries. That’s it. There are two prices on the menu: one for burgers and fries, and one for just fries. Want the 18 S. Clinton? That’s a cheeseburger (named for Short’s street address). That’ll be $8.50. A Beaconsfield? (18 S. Clinton + bacon.) $8.50. A more exotic burger? Oh, they have them. And they’re all the same price, which includes fries.

The first time I went there, I got the Jamaica. Jerk spiced, mango jalepeno salsa, and pepper jack cheese. It was beautiful when it got to the table. A little pinker on the inside than I normally expect (though I tend to be a little paranoid about that), but I figured that if you go to a place that only serves burgers, they probably have the right cooking temperature figured out. And it waaaaaas tasty. But if you’re going to make it as a new restaurant in downtown Iowa City, don’t forget the vegans. And they haven’t. There are maybe five different bean burgers, all with equally exotic options.

If I have to come up with minor complaints, I can offer two. First, I’m not necessarily sold on the style of fries. Though they were seasoned perfectly, I like them a little crispier. When we went there the next time, I asked specifically for crispy fries, and they still weren’t really right. I assume that’s because they use a lower cooking temperature for the oil, and your only option then is to leave them in longer, which isn’t really going to do it. Second, I’d rather they either left pickles off the burger or mentioned them on the menu, because I’m apparently too feeble-minded to remember to ask them to forgo the dills unless I have a printed reminder.

Does it sound like I’m reaching? I am. There’s precious little to dislike about Short’s. We’ve been there several more times, and will keep going. I suppose if I wanted another complaint, I might note that it gets pretty loud. You know why? Because a lot of people are going there. You should be one of them.